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When assembling a list of London’s best dining spots, one might anticipate renowned Michelin-starred names. Yet, nestled near the top among these food giants is a unpretentious salonu located in a far-flung corner of north London.

A Shocking Honour

This small Turkish spot, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the 4th top restaurant in the city by a influential gastronomic guide. This honour has made the family totally shocked.

“I am totally shocked,” says the family member, referring to his parents’ hard graft that led to their humble place earning such a lofty spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Character of Modesty

The compact space, which started as a simple cafe before its change into a popular food hotspot, has kept much of its former feel. It fits just over 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking display, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy space,” comments the owner.

The Star Dish: Tantuni

However, it’s all down to the cuisine, and this establishment certainly delivers. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a moist, juicy texture.

It is then thrown into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. As the flavourful mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to soak in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is folded tightly inside.

The wrap is typically enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a powerful burst of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A leading food critic described this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe proves a treat. It is coated in less syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a richer, toastier and more balanced taste.

Rising Above the Titans

Notably, this modest spot has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for less than £25, equivalent tasting menus at top-tier establishments can cost significantly more than that figure.

The Philosophy of Warmth

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I don’t believe in that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The sentiment is supported by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he were in a role of authority, he would “insist to have every chef in London visit this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Journey of Dedication

In contrast to most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food did not train at Michelin-starred establishments. “I feel really happy of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to become successful, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum would be extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a life outside work but her friends would come here to support her. She had children and a house to care for as well. All of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

A Achievement for the Community

This restaurant’s success is likely to have meaning outside its own premises. “I believe many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the wider meaning of this gastronomic achievement.